My first dinner in Lewiston with the BD

[Nicklasss]

First a deception : the unexpected accident of MC in Boston changed totally the final 3 days of our family holidays. This was just too bad as we were supposed to have a greater time. For consolation, MC is tough, so we were able to go for one day to Maine and me be able to have one dinner with Jim, but the original plan was way better.

So Jim picked me up downtown Lewiston at the Hampton Inn around 4:30 pm. As MC who stayed at the Sherbrooke hospital the previous night was not coming for dinner to have some rest, the kids decided to stay with mommy, but Jim was kind enough to come say hello to everyone, and leave some perfectly delicious whoopie pies to all.

We left for Jim’s house in a lightly remoted forested area 15 min from Lewiston. There, we start discussing about the last days, and all the challenge to go back to Canada, and to US 15 hours later… also discussed about coming BWE convention in DC in a bit more than 2 months. We went to Jim’s cellar, and Jim let me pick what to open, and adding I could choose anything but his 1995 Petrus that he plans to open on his 70th birthday. I did want to choose, as I was just happy to make it finally to the BD’s place, and just seeing/having time with him was enough. Jim picked up a 2013 Dom Pérignon, a 2017 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean, and a 2016 Lafite Rothschild. For that last one, Jim asked me if I would prefer a 1989 Lynch Bages or 1996 Lafite Rothschild, but I just said I had the 1989 LB many times in his company, and to keep the 1996 for the second night, as MC would probably by there… and I like sooo much 2016!

We went back on the outside deck, on a medium warm evening to start the dinner. Jim had way too many food, but we ate as much as we can like clam chowder, 3 lobsters each, french cheese from Fromage.com, whoopie pies and fresh peaches with cream. That was a lot but as all was delicious, it was easy to over eat a bit more than normally. During dinner, I was amazed to learn that Maine is looking more toward the republican, and happy to see that Jim has some good travelling plan going to Paris and Bangkok soon.

For the wine, the 3 wines were perfect, as they all decided to show all their bests.

The 2013 Dom Perignon is so good right now, and so much Dom, with it’s ripe lemon and with flesh fruit, ginger, good acidity, and good core of chalky minerals. Great bubbles, long, a complete Champagne. For now, I prefer it to the 2012 (riper, less Dom signature to me) or the 2008 (younger, austere, concentrated, fresh, long, need more time), giving way more but keeps all the Dom signature. Drinking beautifully that night. With the lobster, went very well and the the minerals were resorting way more in mouth. Tn: 95.

Jim was worried about the 2017 Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean, as his last bottle opened was not perfect. But this one, to me, was singing! It was like a tremendous opera or the Ravel Bolero, getting stronger and stronger with time and air. One bottle for two made it long to drink and that was good as on the first 30 mins, you would have never feel the greatness of the wine. Intense yellow color, the wine was having all the « mystical qualities » that only the best white Bourgogne can offer. Hitting very near Grand Cru level, the nose was incredible, mixing all the lemony/citrusy aromas, with kind of oily/waxy minerals from the soil, light butter, hazelnut skins, white peaches fruit. Mouth was the one of a great wine, with everything integrated together in one concentrated matter to start, but become different at each next sip! One time only waxy minerals with almonds, one time citrus and almonds, one time butter and white flesh fruit, next mineral with green lemon… but the real treat, was with the lobster: simply one of the best match of my life! Lobster meat with few drops of lemon was magnified by the wine and magnifying the wine. The combine fruit of both, with the light saline taste of the lobster and the butter mineral of the wine, just that was making the day! Tn: 96.

Next was the 2016 Château Lafite Rothschild. The top Pauillac in my favorite recent vintage, expectation where high… The magic side of 2016, it is like the wines never closed down, and offer a lot on their early age, and their balance will make them age beautifully for a long time. Deep red purple color, the nose was just too marvellous for a 8 yo Lafite. THE perfect Pauillac nose, mixing power, élégance, complexity, signature of Pauillac, with dark red berries, black currants, light spicy oak, violet flowers, cedar, lead pencil. Very perfumed, jumping out of the glass, swirling gets out more fresh dark berries and black currants. Mouth was like all the other 2016 I had, but with that extra definition and élégance that correspond to what all Red Bordeaux lovers are looking for. A very completed mouth, with no let down at any moment. The element on the nose were all in the mouth flavours very balanced, and reminded me Yquem as a perfect mix of power and « aerial » character, fruity but mineral lead pencil but oaky but light green perfumed cedar but more fruit… back up by a superb balanced structure and perfect tannic side that make the flavors staying more than a minute in mouth. I did not had Lafite often, so I would agree with Jim that even if this is a young Lafite, it is probably the best I had to date, better than the 2002 and 2008 we had last year, or the 1976 we drank in 2001. I know that Comte Flâneur considers the 2016 he had up to now a bit « clinical », I understand that comment but for me, I like that extremely thrilling perfect character of the 2016, being simply a supreme vintage that is superb young, and will offer even more later. By the way, the 2019 Belair-Monange is a bit that way too so this is why I like it so much, but not other 2019 I had that I just liked (without the so much). I’m happy for Jim that have 21 more bottles, and will have extreme drinking pleasure for a long time. Tn: 98+.

After that, Jim opened a mystery wine and I won’t discuss to long about that one. From the color, from start I said it was from the 90’s, and from the very non charming nose of green, rough, light mushroom, and non charming mouth tasting almost no fruit, more some wet earth with strong green tannins. I eliminated quickly Pessac, Pomerol, Saint Émilion, Margaux and Saint Estèphe, and I thought it was a bad 1995 Pauillac or Saint Julien. In my mind, 1995 has produced very good wines, but also deceptive ones. When Jim showed me the 1993 Batailley, I laugh as it was the best unexpected shot he could have done! It was as « boring » as the bottle I had 24-25 years ago. I would have never guessed it, never thinking that Jim could have that wine, as it is not available in NA and very rare in the World. Jim tasting the wine, confirmed that I was completely right to say that a wine could be « as boring as a 1993 Batailley »! Tn: 78.

Last, with fresh peaches and cream, Jim asked me what to open between 1999 Rieussec or 2019 Coutet. I went for the Coutet as I thought the young character and acidity of the wine would go better with the fresh fruit ( 1999 Rieussec would go better with foie gras I guess). Again, that was perfect, as the medium liquorous style of the Coutet, with lots of sweet fruit character (peaches, citrus, quince, confit lemon) went well with the dessert. On it’s own, the Coutet was more concentrated than the 2014 we had at the estate in 2015, and that 2019 has nice fruit, light botrytis roasted character, and good orange tree flower honey. Not the sweeter, not the most concentrated or powerful, but again well done in a dense élégance way. Tn: 93.

So that was it. A perfect night with Jim. Unfortunately, we drank a bit too much, but this is a problem when we don’t see our wine lover friends enough, trying to open and taste all in one night… I’m a bit sad we had to leave the next day, as I was expecting the 1996 Lafite to be what the 2016 will be later, also to drink a 2013 Taittinger Comte de Champagne I brought for MC and Jim, and I was also having a mystery wine that I left to Jim, and unfortunately is not a mystery anymore. I also left a basic 2022 basic White Bourgogne from Paul Pernot to Jim, and I guess we’ll drink this one as well another time. So will have to plan our next visit to Lewiston sooner than later…

[JeanFred]

More than 4 bottles, Big evening…

Quite an adventure but you finally ended up in Maine! With a return trip to Quebec and stitches for MC as a bonus... Too bad your trip was cut short.
Let's say it's gone and maybe I'll be there for the next visit.

I would have been curious to see what happened next, your blind wine and a possible Lafite 96 to compare to the 2016.

JeanFred

[JimHow]

Thank you for the report, Nic, what a great night that was. I think Nic was in heaven with the lobster and Niellon match in particular, man it is hard to imagine a better food and wine match! I hope Marie-Claude is feeling better. To be honest, I was really hurting the next day and am not sure how much fun I would have been going out to Five Island lobster pound. As a result I've decided on an impromptu wine fast between now and my September trip, to be broken only next weekend when a couple more BWEers come to visit the Great State of Maine, stay tuned for reports from the internationally renowned attorney and philanthropist! Life is good!

[DavidG]

What a great evening! Lobster and a great white Burgundy are a match made in heaven. Alas, only memories since we’re off of shellfish.

I have very high hopes for the 2016s. Glad to hear that the Lafite showed so well at what would usually be an awkward stage.

Peggy and I are looking forward to a visit with Jim in Lewiston this weekend. It will be our first trip there. We came close over a decade ago but had to bail out last minute, so we can’t wait to see the BD in his natural habitat.

[JimHow]

Can’t wait, David!
Knock on wood, the early weather reports for your trip to Maine are looking splendid!

[Nicklasss]

David and Peggy, wish you a great time with Jim. Should i go back this weekend?

[JimHow]

That is the BWE spirit Nicola! Of course, all BWEers have an open invitation to BWE back deck holy land!